Sometimes I see a motif in one of my stitch patterns based on words that I want to play with. This stitch pattern is an excerpt from Time, with some minor edits.
- This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. It is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
- Time diamonds is a multiple of 8 + 9 stitches and 16 or 16 + 8 rows. (End after either row 8 or 16.)
- I’ve made a stitch map for Time diamonds.
- Designers, please feel free to use this in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
- My blog posts and free stitch patterns are supported by subscriptions on Patreon or donations to my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. If you appreciate my work, please consider helping out. Thanks!
- BEY (bunny ears yarnover): This is a variant on the bunny ears decrease, with a yarnover added in the middle. It turns three stitches into three stitches. Knit 2 together, but only remove the first stitch from the needle; yarn over; then work ssk with the second and third stitches. The middle stitch of the original three has been knit together with each of its neighbors. Blog post about bunny ears yarnover.
- CDD: centered double decrease: slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the third.
- k: knit.
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
- p: purl.
- p1b: purl one below. For this stitch pattern, it’s not quite the same as a regular p1b, because it’s actually purling the bar below a yarnover, but the action is much the same. From behind, pick up the bar below the yarnover with the right needle and place it on the left needle next to the yarnover; purl both those strands at the same time. This prevents the bar from making a horizontal line in front of the yarnover.
- ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Or substitute your favorite left-leaning decrease)
- yo: yarnover. Bring the yarn forward between the needles so that it will make a loop over the needle when the next stitch is worked. When there are two in a row, bring the yarn forward, wrap it once around the needle, and leave the yarn in front so it makes a second loop.
Row 1 (RS): k1, ssk, yo, *BEY, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo; work from *, BEY, yo, k2tog, k1. (17 sts)
Row 2 (WS): p4, p1b, *p7, p1b; work from *, p4.
Row 3: (k2tog, yo) × 2, *k1, yo, ssk, yo, cdd, yo, k2tog, yo; work from *, k1, (yo, ssk) × 2.
Row 4: purl.
Row 5: k1, k2tog, yo, *BEY, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo; work from *, BEY, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 6: p4, p1b, *p7, p1b; work from *, p4.
Row 7: k1, ssk, yo, k1, *k2, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1; work from *, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 8: purl.
Row 9: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, *k1, ssk, yo, BEY, yo, k2tog; work from *, k1, ssk, yo, k2tog, yo.
Row 10: p5, *p3, p1b, p4; work from *, p4.
Row 11: k1, yo, ssk, yo, *cdd, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; work from *, cdd, yo, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 12: purl.
Row 13: (yo, ssk) × 2, *k1, k2tog, yo, BEY, yo, ssk; work from *, k1, (k2tog, yo) × 2.
Row 14: p5, *p3, p1b, p4; work from *, p4.
Row 15: k2, yo, k2tog, *k1, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog; work from *, k1, ssk, yo, k2.
Row 16: purl.