]]>

I quickly sketched out about ten possible narrow word charts in my graph paper notebook, and found that a large majority of them were feasible as cables. Success! However, it’s still most practical for short words.

In celebration, here is *quip* as a cable, encoded in base 3 and then charted with my method 1.

- This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. This is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
*Quip*is a multiple of 8+10 stitches and 44+2 rows.- I’ve made a stitch map for it.
- Designers, please feel free to use it in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
- If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!

- 1/1 LC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at front of work, knit 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
- 1/1 LPC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at front of work, purl 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
- 1/1 RC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at back of work, knit 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
- 1/1 RPC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at back of work, knit 1, then purl 1 from cable needle.
- k: knit.
- p: purl.

Row 1 (RS): k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1. [18 sts]

Row 2 (WS): p1, 1/1 LPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, p1.

Row 3: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 4: p1, 1/1 RPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, p1.

Row 5: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 6: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RPC, *1/1 LPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC; work from *, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 7: (k1, p1) x 2, 1/1 RC, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, 1/1 RC; work from *, (p1, k1) x 2.

Row 8: (p1, k1) x 2, *p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1; work from *, p2, (k1, p1) x 2.

Row 9: (k1, p1) x 2, 1/1 RC, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, 1/1 RC; work from *, (p1, k1) x 2.

Row 10: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, *1/1 RPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC; work from *, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 11: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 12: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RPC, *1/1 LPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC; work from *, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 13: (k1, p1) x 2, 1/1 RC, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, 1/1 RC; work from *, (p1, k1) x 2.

Row 14: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, *1/1 RPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC; work from *, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 15: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 16: p1, 1/1 LPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, p1.

Row 17: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 18: p2, k1, p1, *k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1; work from *, k2, p1, k1, p2.

Row 19: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 20: p2, k1, p1, *k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1; work from *, k2, p1, k1, p2.

Row 21: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 22: p1, 1/1 RPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, p1.

Row 23: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 24: p1, 1/1 LPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, p1.

Row 25: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 26: p2, k1, p1, *k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1; work from *, k2, p1, k1, p2.

Row 27: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 28: p2, k1, p1, *k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1; work from *, k2, p1, k1, p2.

Row 29: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 30: p1, 1/1 RPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, p1.

Row 31: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 32: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RPC, *1/1 LPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC; work from *, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 33: (k1, p1) x 2, 1/1 RC, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, 1/1 RC; work from *, (p1, k1) x 2.

Row 34: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, *1/1 RPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC; work from *, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 35: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 36: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RPC, *1/1 LPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC; work from *, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 37: (k1, p1) x 2, 1/1 RC, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, 1/1 RC; work from *, (p1, k1) x 2.

Row 38: (p1, k1) x 2, *p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1; work from *, p2, (k1, p1) x 2.

Row 39: (k1, p1) x 2, 1/1 RC, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, 1/1 RC; work from *, (p1, k1) x 2.

Row 40: p1, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, *1/1 RPC, p1, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC; work from *, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, p1.

Row 41: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 42: p1, 1/1 LPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 RPC, p1.

Row 43: 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2, *k1, p1, 1/1 RC, p1, k1, p2; work from *, k1, p1, 1/1 RC.

Row 44: p1, 1/1 RPC, p1, *k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p1; work from *, k2, p1, 1/1 LPC, p1.

Repeat rows 1-44 as desired, ending with

Row 45: k1, p1, 1/1 LC, p2, *(1/1 LC, p2) x 2; work from *, 1/1 LC, p1, k1.

Row 46: p1, k1, p2, *(k2, p2) x 2; work from *, k2, p2, k1, p1.

If you don’t want to knit cables on wrong side rows, here’s a chart for a variation with only knit and purl on the wrong side:

It is twice as tall because I’ve added an extra row between each cable row; it will stretch the effect vertically. I’m not including written instructions.

The first thing I did was to turn the letters of *quip* into numbers, using base 3: 122 210 100 121.

Then I laid out the numbers on a grid, like this:

Rows 1-3 are the letter *q, *starting at the bottom: 122. Rows 4-6 are the letter *u*, continuing upward: 210, and so on for 100 and 121. Then I divided the resulting grid up, because each 1/1 cable cross requires 2 stitches and 2 rows (the wrong side rows are hidden in this explanatory chart, but implied by the row numbers). Finally, I mirrored the chart and repeated it so I could put in the appropriate repeat borders. (I also mirrored it vertically, but I didn’t show that here to save space.)

All encoded letters are indicated in the final chart with 1/1 RC and LC cables – the spots where knit stitches cross other knit stitches. Once that was all done, I incorporated 1/1 RPC and LPC cables to tie everything together in an interesting pattern; these cable stitches are not part of the code.

]]>My plan is to use a random number generator to pick three concepts from the following table at the beginning of each day, and then try to take at least one photo that day using at least one of those concepts. I’m going to try this for a week and see how it goes; if I’m having fun, I’ll keep going until it’s not fun anymore.

My goal is to stretch my photography abilities.

I’ll be posting my results on social media using the hashtag #50concepts. (Picked because it doesn’t appear to be an existing hashtag.) I’m considering starting a photo blog on WordPress instead of posting here.

If you’d like to give it a try, feel free! Use this list if you like, come up with your own words if you like, change the number of words you pick each day, I don’t care. (Just please don’t start tagging people.)

1 | abstract | 26 | nostalgia |

2 | animal | 27 | numbers |

3 | artificial | 28 | old |

4 | asymmetry | 29 | outside |

5 | broken | 30 | paper |

6 | circle | 31 | parallel |

7 | contrast | 32 | perspective |

8 | corner | 33 | plant |

9 | curves | 34 | rectangle |

10 | door | 35 | regular |

11 | down | 36 | repetition |

12 | fiber | 37 | roof |

13 | foreshortening | 38 | rotational symmetry |

14 | hard | 39 | rough |

15 | hexagon | 40 | rusty |

16 | inside | 41 | smooth |

17 | irregular | 42 | soft |

18 | letters | 43 | textile |

19 | lines | 44 | triangle |

20 | mended | 45 | unexpected |

21 | metal | 46 | up |

22 | mineral | 47 | vanishing point |

23 | mirror symmetry | 48 | water |

24 | natural | 49 | window |

25 | new | 50 | wood |

It doesn’t help that my very first attempt to produce such cables worked, but most of my efforts since then have failed.

In the end, the Cooke and Wheatstone system turned out not to work for my purposes, for the same reasons that my usual code grids don’t (with the added difficulty that there’s several letters missing with that code, so that one has to use S instead of Z and K instead of Q, and a few other substitutions). Nonetheless, this has led me in some helpful directions, because I talked the problem through with a designer friend. This kind of dead end is never a waste of time for me, even if there’s mild disappointment involved.

The version of the code on the left made me think “cables!”, and indeed, my son walked past while I was looking at it and remarked that it looked like a knitting chart.

The trouble turns out to be that while the alphabet in order could probably be made to make continuous interconnected lines from column to column, once the letters are mixed up to make words, it doesn’t work out so well.

These are the two kinds of coded cables I’ve been able to make in the past:

(These are from my page about encoding cables; they show *peace*.)

The plainer one is just fine, and that style looks good to me so long as the cable crosses come frequently enough. The one with lots of braids is more interesting to me, but it’s that kind of thing that I’ve had a hard time making work with codes.

Anyway, I looked at the Cooke and Wheatstone chart, and figured out the code for *peace* (or rather, *pease* – it would have to be distinguished from the word with the same spelling from context.)

|||\/

/|\||

/|||\

|\|/|

/|\||

I decided to see what this looks like as an actual cable chart. Each cable cross needs to be at least two stitches wide, so each symbol of the code will need that much space. There also need to be plain rows in between the cable cross rows. I decided that the vertical lines would be two knit stitches, the / would be a 1/1 RC and the \ would be a 1/1 LC. The chart is thus ten stitches wide by ten rows high.

I could almost make this work out with the method from my complicated cable above – the cable crosses that are knit over knit are code crosses; the ones that are knit over purl are not. And there’s k over p cable crosses on wrong side rows.

Here’s what happened with the Smith and Wheatstone code for *peace:*

I’ve circled the purl stitches that lead into or come out of what need to be knit stitches for the code. This was no go. But maybe this was a fluke. What about some other words?

Here’s the charts for *cable, knit, *and* maybe. Cable* had similar difficulties to *peace* for the fancy crossings. I couldn’t even figure out where to start with *knit*. *Maybe* was a partial success, but I thought the chart didn’t look promising enough to bother swatching.

I also didn’t care for the appearance of the arbitrary left or right leaning lines in the columns that didn’t have braiding.

Anyway, I talked it over with some friends, and the mere act of discussing it helped me see some ways to reconsider my code grid methods again. More about this another time!

]]>I usually develop a complicated knitting stitch pattern for each word, but I also like to provide a basic chart for any craft that’s worked on a grid: beads, cross stitch, whatever. I also try to provide an image of the pattern repeated all over not as a chart. I use a bunch of filters and things to try to make it look interesting while retaining the encoded layout. It doesn’t necessarily look like a finished object for any particular craft, but I just want to give a sense of it.

- Designers, please feel free to use these designs in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
- If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!

Each month, my Patreon backers have the chance to suggest words for me to encode as knitting stitches. A random number generator helps me choose the word of the month, and then I get to work, first turning the letters into numbers, then charting the numbers onto grids in various ways. Finally, when I make the chart into lace, I turn the marked squares into yarnovers and work out where to place the corresponding decreases. (I usually make lace; occasionally I make cables instead.) I also make a chart for any craft that uses a square grid for designing; this goes in a separate post.

- This is a stitch pattern such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. This is not a pattern for a finished object. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
- The lace panel version of
*Rest*is a multiple of 16+16 stitches and 8 rows; the full version with offsets is 16+16 stitches and 16 rows. - To work the lace panel version of
*Rest*, repeat rows 1-8. I’ve made a stitch map for the panel version. - To work the full version of
*Rest,*repeat rows 1-16. This has a stitch map of its own. - Designers, please feel free to use it in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.
- If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon or donating with my Paypal tip jar in the sidebar. Thanks!

- k: knit.
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
- p: purl.
- ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop. (Left-leaning decrease)
- yo: yarnover.

Row 1 (RS): k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog, *ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog; work from *, ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2.

Row 2 (WS): p5, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1, *p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p10, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1; work from *, p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p5.

Row 3: k3, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, *yo x 2, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog; work from *, yo x 2, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k3.

Row 4: p7, (k1, p1) in double yo, *p14, (k1, p1) in double yo; work from *, p7.

Row 5: k2, (k2tog, yo, k1) x 2, *(k1, yo, ssk) x 2, k4, (k2tog, yo, k1) x 2; work from *, (k1, yo, ssk) x 2, k2.

Row 6: purl.

Row 7: k2, ssk, yo, k4, *k4, yo, k2tog, k4, ssk, yo, k4; work from *, k4, yo, k2tog, k2.

Row 8: purl.

Row 9: ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, *k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog, ssk, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2; work from *, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, k2tog.

Row 10: p1, (k1, p1) in double yo, p5, *p5, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, p5; work from *, p5, (k1, p1) in double yo, p1.

Row 11: yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k3, *k3, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo x 2, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k3; work from *, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo.

Row 12: p8, *p7, (k1, p1) in double yo, p7; work from *, p8.

Row 13: (k1, yo, ssk) x 2, k2, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k2; work from *, k2, (k2tog, yo, k1) x 2.

Row 14: purl.

Row 15: k4, yo, k2tog, k2, *k2, ssk, yo, k8, yo, k2tog, k2; work from *, k2, ssk, yo, k4.

Row 16: purl.

The first thing I did was to turn the letters of *rest* into numbers, using base 8: 22 05 23 24. I picked base 8 because it was one of the options that encoded this word with the fewest zeroes.

Then I laid out the numbers on a grid, like this:

Here’s how I do that. Each letter of *rest *is two digits. I’m going to use each of those digits to count squares from right to left. After counting enough squares for each digit, I’ll mark the next square to the left (though I’ll have to account for line breaks).

I started in the bottom right corner because knitting starts at the bottom right corner. (This is entirely arbitrary, but I like to be consistent when I do these.) The first digit of *r* is 2, so I counted two squares, and then marked the next square to the left with black. The second digit of *r* is 2, so I counted two more squares and marked the next. The first digit of *e* is zero, so I counted no squares and marked the next. (I know that’s a little weird, but it’s really the only way to account for zero in this method.) The second digit of *e* is 5, so I counted five squares—well, I counted one square on this row, but then I ran out of room, so I jumped up to the next row and finished counting there.

I kept going in this manner until I’d finished the last digit. there are four squares left over in this grid, but they don’t matter for the code, because there’s no marked square after them; the last marked square shows where the code ends.

Once I made the grid, I mirrored it horizontally for aesthetic reasons, and then I turned all the black squares into YOs and figured out where to place the decreases.

]]>

- These are stitch patterns such as might be found in a stitch dictionary. They are not patterns for finished objects. You will need to add selvedges or some other form of knitted stitches to either side.
- All three of these stitches
- Designers, please feel free to use these in your patterns. I’d like credit but won’t be offended if people don’t give it.

- gather left: (k1, yo, k1) in next 3 stitches as if to SSSK: slip each of the next 3 stitches as if to knit, slip them back to the left needle together, and (k1, yo, k1) through all three back loops at the same time.
- gather right: (k1, yo, k1) in next 3 stitches as if to knit three together.
- k: knit.
- p: purl.

I made a stitch map for *Gathered Tendrils*.

Row 1 (RS): k3, gather left, k1, gather right, k3. [13 sts]

Row 2 (WS): purl.

Row 3: k1, gather right, k5, gather left, k1.

Row 4: purl.

*Gathered Braids* in particular makes an interesting mock cable.

I made a stitch map for it.

Row 1 (RS): p1, k1, p1, gather left, p1, gather right, p1, k1, p1. [13 sts]

Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) x 6, k1.

Row 3: p1, gather right, (p1, k1) x 2, p1, gather left, p1.

Row 4: (k1, p1) x 6, k1.

I made a stitch map for *Gathered Fronds*.

Row 1 (RS): p3, gather left, p1, gather right, p3.

Row 2 (WS): k3, p3, k1, p3, k3.

Row 3: p1, gather right, p5, gather left, p1.

Row 4: k1, p3, k5, p3, k1.

Psst: all are in color! Grey yarn photographed on a grey day, sigh.

]]>It sounds more complicated than it is. Take the 3/3 gather. When making a k3tog decrease, the basic principle is to insert the needle through all three stitches as if they were one stitch, and then knit one stitch in that clump of stitches. The gather expands upon that: knit those three stitches together without removing them from the needle, then yarnover, then knit the three stitches together again. This is the same as working a KYOK at the same time as a k3tog. Start with three stitches, end with three stitches, but they’re gathered together.

But thinking of it as a decrease/increase started making my brain fizz.

There’s other kinds of double decreases, too: sssk, CDD, sk2p. What if I worked a KYOK in those? How would that look? So I knit a swatchlet as a starting point.

From left to right, these are

- The standard k3tog gather
- Sssk gather
- CDD gather
- Sk2p gather
- CDD gather, but with (p1, yo, p1) instead of (k1, yo, k1)

Number 1 is the classic: knit three together without removing them from the needles, yo, and then knit the same three together.

For number 2, I slipped each of the next three stitches as if to knit, then slipped them back to the left needle. I knit them together through the back loop without removing them from the needle, then I worked a yo and knit the same three together again. (Photo just shows the part where they’ve been slipped back, ready to be knit through the back loop.) This results in the mirror image of number 1, no great surprise. This could have its uses!

For number 3, I had to pause a moment, then I worked it out. First, slip 2 as if to knit them together, just like a regular CDD. Then I worked (k1, yo, k1) in the next stitch. Finally, I passed the two slipped stitches over the three new stitches. A little awkward (especially because I think I was using needles a smidge too small for my yarn), but perfectly possible. I like this result a lot, and think I could do something interesting with it.

Once I worked out 3, it wasn’t hard to figure out 4: slip 1 as if to knit, then I worked (k1, yo, k1) in the next two stitches together, then I passed the slipped stitch over. It’s not really visually different from 2, but maybe it will come in handy for something anyway. We’ll see!

While I was knitting plain rows after working the CDD version, I was thinking about how the KYOK works. While the maneuver is (k1, yo, k1), the yo doesn’t actually look like a yo. If you turn the fabric over and look at the other side, you can see that the yo is structurally identical to a knit stitch. I’m not going to talk about why in this post, though. Anyway, the inverse of (k1, yo, k1) is (p1, yo, p1). After looking at #3, I wondered if working a CDD with a PYOP instead of a KYOK would make something with more vertical symmetry.

The answer was yes. I *really* like this one and want to figure out where to use it. Stay tuned!

The knitalong itself will be held in my Ravelry group, in this thread.

If you start your Ravelry project page at the beginning of the KAL and have it finished with a photo of your finished shawl by March 15, you’ll be eligible for a randomly-drawn prize given to one person: either a custom stitch pattern based on a short word using my secret code methods, or a $10 coupon to be used in my pattern store, your choice. Make sure to post in the Ravelry thread when you’re done! I hope you’ll join us for conversation along the way, too.

The Knitalong will start on February 1 and end on March 15. (Because sometimes shawls need more than four weeks.)

I’m putting all my shawl patterns on sale at 25% off between January 20 and 31 (Eastern Standard Time). You won’t need to do anything special; they’ll just be on sale.

]]>I talked a couple of weeks ago about wanting to share more swatches of the kinds of stitch patterns my needlework charts can be turned into. The swatch I’ve posted today is the result of taking the Mountain needlework chart, turning it sideways, and making a k/p stitch pattern from it. Each black square is purled on the right side and knit on the wrong side, and each white square is knit on the right side and purled on the wrong side.

I very much like this result!

]]>