I just updated all the internal links in my secret code posts so they don’t link to my old Blogger posts.

Three cheers!

I just updated all the internal links in my secret code posts so they don’t link to my old Blogger posts.

Three cheers!

Table of Contents: Embedding Meaning in Your Knitting | Converting Words to Numbers | Making a grid | Asymmetry or Symmetry? | Converting grids into stitch patterns | Lace | Cables | Other Encodings | Summary of My Method | Addendum: Ribbing | Further Resources

Another variant of secret code knitting I recently thought of involves making the ribbing at the edge of something different heights based on what letters you want to use.

In this case, the simplest encoding is to figure out the number for each letter (A=1 through Z=26); alternately, you can write the letters of the alphabet up the side of a chart and work out the height that way.

Here I’ve egotistically used my name and charted it out the way I’d want to see it on a piece of knitting, from left to right.

Naomi Parkhurst:

N is 14, A is 1, O is 15, M is 13, I is 9, P is 16, A is 1, R is 18, K is 11, H is 8, U is 21, R is 18, S is 19, T is 20.

So each letter gets a knit rib, with a plain purl rib in between, and otherwise the pattern shows best with the background in reverse stockinette (purl bumps facing outward), you could of course have the letter ribs in purl with a regular stockinette background, but it’s less striking in appearance.

The ribbing I’ve made from this so far was worked in the round, and so I made it inside out – this required flipping the chart from left to right so that the letters would show correctly.

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

Table of Contents: Embedding meaning in Your Knitting | Converting Words to Numbers | Making a grid | Asymmetry or Symmetry? | Converting grids into stitch patterns | Lace | Cables | Other Encodings | Summary of My Method | Addendum: Ribbing | Further Resources

About a year ago I came up with an idea for turning Dewey Decimal library catalog numbers into knitted lace (hi, I’m a geeky librarian. :D). I’m still working on that shawl, but I’ve expanded my thoughts to general encoding of words and numbers into grids, and then knitting. This is a summary of my very long blog posts about this.

First, either pick a number you like or turn your words into numbers somehow. You can assign each letter a number from 01-26 (I like to convert mine into base 6 because it tends to make a better pattern) or use the ASCII codes or use some other method. I am particularly pleased by using Dewey Decimal numbers.

Then plot those numbers out on a grid. There are several ways of doing this, but the most straightforward is to make the length of one axis the same as the base you’re using (so six squares if you’re using base 6) and the length of the other the same as the number of digits you’re encoding. A five letter word will be 10 digits long in most of the methods I use, so it will fit in a 6×10 grid. Then mark the squares in each row of the grid accordingly.

Now you have a grid you can play with layout (be careful if you’re actually using secret code or you’ll make it indecipherable), and then turn the marked squares on the chart into knitting stitch symbols. It’s easiest for colorwork or purl stitches or slipped stitches. If you’re doing cables or lace, there’s more manipulation you have to do in the background.

Here’s a quick sequence for you:

Peace becomes 2405010305 (using base 6). Using a 6×10 grid, that becomes

I decided I didn’t care about decipherability, so I mirrored it on itself and then removed duplicate columns:

Used as straight-up colorwork, the chart produces

(There are more variants in the longer descriptions.)

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

Table of Contents: Embedding meaning in Your Knitting | Converting Words to Numbers | Making a grid | Asymmetry or Symmetry? | Converting grids into stitch patterns | Lace | Cables | Other Encodings | Summary of My Method | Addendum: Ribbing | Further Resources

Now we have come to the end of this series; I have finished describing my method for encoding words and numbers into grids and knitting. I’m going to finish up by summarizing some other techniques, both by other people and myself.

I have located two simple ways of knitting a block of text into a cipher that other people have come up with.

One is to knit as if you were writing, using purl bumps, colorwork, or slipped stitches. Writing is done in rows; knitting goes back and forth or round and round in rows. Admittedly, the mechanisms are slightly different. However, you can convert letters into binary and then knit the binary code in rows or rounds, where 0 is knit and 1 is purl. Take the word *peace*. Converted to binary, that’s 01110000 01100101 01100001 01100011 01100101. In knitting, that would be k1, p3, k5, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k4, p1. You could go on to write other words as well and end up with a random-looking collection of knits and purls, or you could knit just *peace* as ribbing with a 40 stitch repeat.

Another option would be to convert the words into Morse code and make dots and dashes by purling or using colorwork and leaving gaps in between for the spaces between letters. A dash is three times as long as a dot. Here is *peace* in Morse code: dot dash dash dot, dot, dot dash, dash dot dash dot, dot. So that would be k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k1, p3, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1.

In fact, since I wrote the first draft of this post, Kate Atherley has published a pattern on Knitty for mittens with a Morse Code stranded knitting pattern.

You could even chart out your words using Braille (thanks to Pat Ashforth for this interesting idea).

There is also a web page by Wayne Batten which speculates about a potential way that Madame Defarge could have encoded names in her knitting on the fly.

The Binary scarf (on Ravelry) by Christine Dumoulin uses colorwork to write binary numbers. Similarly, you could borrow the binary cables from the Binary Cable Hat by Firefairy.

Another straightforward method of turning numbers into knitting is to make stripes. Take the word *knit*. If you use the simplest decimal encoding, then k=11, n=14, i=9, and t=20. Knit 11 rows of one color, 14 of the next, 9 of another color, and 20 of another. Alternately, you could knit ribbing that was k11, p14, k9, and p20.

Two anecdotal methods of knitting ciphers from World War II that I haven’t found definite confirmation of and that seem more complicated to use involve modifying the yarn, knitting with it, and then unravelling it when it reaches its destination. In one case, the yarn might have been painted (in a long string, not a skein) with the dots and dashes of Morse code. In the other case, knots might have been tied in the yarn with the space between the knots indicating different letters.

Now for some thoughts I haven’t seen elsewhere (though that certainly doesn’t mean these are new ideas).

A somewhat more subtle method is to make stripes in both directions on a baby blanket. Here’s a short name for an example: Ed. This becomes 5 and 4. If you do a k5, p4 ribbing for 5 rows and then a p5, k4 ribbing for 4 rows, it makes a reversible check pattern.

Another way to make stripes is to pick cable patterns that have stitch repeats that match the numbers.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my tour of a variety of methods of embedding and encoding meaning–I’d love to see any projects using my techniques!

(If you’d rather comment on Ravelry, I have a thread for this post in my group.)

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

Table of Contents: Embedding meaning in Your Knitting | Converting Words to Numbers | Making a grid | Asymmetry or Symmetry? | Converting grids into stitch patterns | Lace | Cables | Other Encodings | Summary of My Method | Addendum: Ribbing | Further Resources

As with my post on lace, I’m not going to go into a great deal of detail about my design process. Among other things, I’m not sure I have a clear enough conscious grasp of how I do it—yet. Maybe someday. In the meantime, I can only suggest copious swatching and trying things out. Even failed attempts will teach you things about design.

For cables or twisted stitches, each square on the grid should be thought of as taking up multiple rows and stitches, so that it outlines a crossing and the minimum vertical space before the next crossing should happen. For cables, you’ll want the cells from the grid to be at least four stitches across and four rows vertically—the cross from a marked cell will happen on just one of those rows. Twisted stitches require at least two cells horizontally and vertically.

k | knit | |

p | Purl. | |

RT | Cross the 2nd st in front of 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st. | |

LT | Cross the 2nd st behind the 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st. | |

RT with the back stitch purled. | Cross the second stitch in front of the first and knit it; purl the first stitch; take both stitches off needle. | |

LT with the back stitch purled | Cross the second stitch behind the first and purl it; knit the first stitch; take both stitches off needle. |

Once you’ve got your basic chart, you can play around with variations. The simplest variant I came up with is to put a purl column in between every pair of columns with a twist, like this:

The result is the left-hand swatch shown in this photo:

peace twist 1

Round 1: k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1

Round 2: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 3: k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 4: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 5: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1

Round 6: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 7: k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1

Round 8: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 9: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1

Round 10: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 11: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1

Round 12: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 13: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1

Round 14: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 15: k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 16: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 17: RT, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1

Round 18: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

Round 19: k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1, RT, p1, k2, p1

Round 20: k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1

On the right is the beginning of more complicated playing around. I declared to myself that the coded crosses would mean anywhere that a knit stitch crossed over a knit stitch; otherwise I could place a knit stitch crossing a purl stitch anywhere I pleased, including on return rows.

Chart: peace twist 2

Round 1: k1, p1, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p1, k1

Round 2: k1, p1, k1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p1, k1

Round 3: k1, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, k1

Round 4: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2

Round 5: RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT

Round 6: k1, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, k1

Round 7: k1, p1, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p1, k1

Round 8: k1, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, LT with back stitch purled, k1

Round 9: RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, LT with back stitch purled, RT with back stitch purled, p1, RT

Round 10: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2

Round 11: RT, p2, k2, p2, RT, p2, k2, p2, RT

Round 12: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2

Round 13: RT, p2, k2, p2, RT, p2, k2, p2, RT

Round 14: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2

Round 15: k2, p2, RT, p2, k2, p2, RT, p2, k2

Round 16: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2

Round 17: RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT, p1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, p1, RT

Round 18: k1, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, LT with back stitch purled, k1, p2, k1, RT with back stitch purled, k1

Round 19: k1, p1, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p2, LT, p1, k1

Round 20: k1, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, k1

Next post in series: Other ways of making knitting codes

(If you’d rather comment on Ravelry, I have a thread for this post in my group.)

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

Turning a grid into a lace chart can be very satisfying, but is also a bit more complicated. I’m going to present an introduction here, but not go into details, as this could involve a full article by itself.

If you want to knit lace from one of these grids, it’s obvious that the marked squares can become yarn overs. There are other considerations as well: do you want to have a plain row after every row with yarn overs? Do you want to knit garter stitch lace or stockinette? You also need to figure out where to put the decreases, because the location of the decreases will affect the appearance of your lace. The key thing is that you need the same number of decreases in your stitch pattern as you have yarn overs. Be prepared to swatch a lot to see what happens, but do try a lot of variations – you’ll learn a lot about lace and might get surprising and interesting results. (If you are keeping your code decipherable, you’ll want to have the decrease in the same line as its corresponding yarn over.)

This is the grid I worked with:

All these stitch patterns are multiples of 12. The return rows are all purl stitches, except that I knit one and purled one into each double yarn over.

k | knit | |

yo | yarn over | |

k2tog | Knit two together to make a right-leaning decrease. | |

ssk | Slip one knitwise, slip the next knitwise, then knit two together through back loop. (Or otherwise make a left-leaning decrease.) | |

RT | Cross the 2nd st in front of 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st. | |

LT | Cross the 2nd st behind the 1st st, knit the 2nd st, then knit the 1st. | |

RTssk | Slip each of the 1st two stitches knitwise, slip back to left needle. Cross the 3rd st in front and knit it; knit the 1st two stitches together through back loop. | |

LTk2tog | Bring the needle behind the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches together. Knit the 1st stitch |

In this first swatch, I started out by putting a decrease next to every yarn over in the chart, but then I moved them around as I swatched to make sinuous lines (also, I started six stitches over from the edge of the grid):

Chart I made before starting knitting:

Row 1: k1, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k1

Row 3: k3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3

Row 5: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4

Row 7: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3

Row 9: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4

Row 11: yo, k2tog, k8, ssk, yo

Row 13: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4

Row 15: k2, yo, k2tog, k4, ssk, yo, k2

Row 17: k4, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k4

Row 19: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3

Finalized version of that chart, with an eye to making everything flow:

Row 1: k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1, yo, k1

Row 3: k3, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k3

Row 5: k4, ssk, yo2, k2tog, k4

Row 7: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3

Row 9: k2, k2tog, k2, yo2, k2, ssk, k2

Row 11: yo, k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1, yo

Row 13: k3, ssk, k1, yo2, k1, k2tog, k3

Row 15: k2, yo, k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1, yo, k2

Row 17: k4, ssk, yo2, k2tog, k4

Row 19: k3, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k3

In the second swatch, I made most of the decreases line up vertically in the chart, swerving only to go around the yarnovers in the same line:

Row 1: ssk, yo, k8, yo, k2tog

Row 3: k2tog, k2, yo, k4, yo, k2, ssk

Row 5: ssk, k4, yo2, k4, k2tog

Row 7: k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk

Row 9: ssk, k4, yo2, k4, k2tog

Row 11: yo, k2tog, k8, ssk, yo

Row 13: k2tog, k4, yo2, k4, ssk

Row 15: k2tog, k1, yo, k6, yo, k1, ssk

Row 17: ssk, k4, yo2, k4, k2tog

Row 19: k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk

In the third, I added in some twisted stitches for the fun of it:

Row 1: ssk, yo, k8, yo, k2tog

Row 3: k2tog, k2, yo, k4, yo, k2, ssk

Row 5: LT, k2, k2tog, yo2, ssk, k2, RT

Row 7: k1, RT, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, LT, k1

Row 9: k2, RT, k2tog, yo2, ssk, LT, k2

Row 11: yo, LTk2tog, k6, RTssk, yo

Row 13: k2tog, k4, yo2, k4, ssk

Row 15: k1, ssk, yo, k6, yo, k2tog, k1

Row 17: k2tog, k4, yo2, k4, ssk

Row 19: k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk

If you would rather comment on Ravelry, I’ve posted this to my group as well.

Next post in series: Cables

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

Table of Contents: Embedding meaning in Your Knitting | Converting Words to Numbers | Making a grid | Possible layouts | Converting grids into stitch patterns | Lace | Cables | Other Encodings | Summary of My Method | Addendum: Ribbing | Further Resources

The first question is what sort of stitch pattern to knit.

Each of these grids is essentially a chart. Knit with two colors of yarn with one color for the background and the other for the marked squares, and you have stranded knitting. (Also called Jacquard or more inaccurately, Fair Isle.) Some grids might also be suitable for mosaic knitting.

Otherwise, you might try substituting a chart symbol for each marked square. The choices that come to my mind immediately: purl, slipped stitch, yarn over, bead, and nupp. Really, if you can put a chart symbol in a single square, try it. Yarn overs do present a special problem–and cables another–which is why I’m going to cover them in a separate post. For this post, I’m going to stick to stranded knitting, purl stitches, and slipped stitches. I would love to see what else people do, however!

Another consideration is whether to knit pattern stitches on every row or on alternating rows; both have their merits. As with any stitch pattern, you may need to add selvedge stitches at the edges when knitting flat and might want to add a partial stitch repeat at one side to balance things.

For the examples here, I am going to use the Base 6 grid for *peace*, mirrored on itself (and thus not a proper cipher).

Here is the grid:

It’s a fairly dense pattern, with about a third of the squares marked. Since there’s no really long stretches of one color, it’s highly suitable for stranded knitting, so I tried it out.

It’s actually reminiscent of a number of traditional patterns; I like it. (Note to cross stitchers–wouldn’t that make a nice border?)

For this chart, I decided to alternate pattern rows with plain rows to help the purl bumps stand out better and to keep the vertical lines of purl from receding. It still forms a slight ribbing effect, but not as pronounced.

RS: k, WS: p | Knit on right side, purl on wrong side. | |

RS: p, WS: k | Purl on right side, knit on wrong side. |

Multiple of four stitches plus one.

Row 1: k1, p1, k1, p1

Row 2: p4

Row 3: k2, p1, k1

Row 4: p4

Row 5: p1, k3

Row 6: p4

Row 7: k1, p1, k1, p1

Row 8: p4

Row 9: p1, k3

Row 10: p4

Row 11: p1, k3

Row 12: p4

Row 13: p1, k3

Row 14: p4

Row 15: k2, p1, k1

Row 16: p4

Row 17: p1, k3

Row 18: p4

Row 19: k1, p1, k1, p1

Row 20: p4

When you slip a stitch, you can either hold the yarn in back so that the stitch looks like a regular stitch stretched out (which it is) or with the yarn in front, so that it makes a horizontal line.

This example mostly makes use of the horizontal line effect and has pattern stitches on every row. There are two rows where the yarn is held on the wrong side because the same stitch is slipped for multiple rows and this makes the slipped stitch weave in and out. If the yarn was always held on the right side, the slipped stitch ended up being mostly hidden. Another alternative for the really elongated stitches would be to hold the yarn in back entirely for a completely different effect. Try it!

One thing I like to do if I’m going to be slipping the same stitch over more than two rows is to add extra wraps to the stitch to be slipped; this helps prevent distortion. I’ve included that in the chart and instructions below.

RS: k; WS: p | Knit on right side; purl on wrong side. | |

RS: k1 elongated ; WS: p1 elongated | Knit or purl as usual, wrapping the yarn around the needle twice instead of once. (Extra wrap to be dropped on next row.) | |

RS: sl wyif; WS: sl wyib | Slip with yarn in front on right side; slip with yarn in back on wrong side. | |

RS: sl wyib; WS: sl wyif | Slip with yarn in back on right side; slip with yarn in front on wrong side. |

Multiple of four stitches plus one.

Row 1: k1, slip wyif, k1, slip wyif

Row 2: p1, slip wyib, p2

Row 3: slip wyif, k3

Row 4: slip wyib, p1, slip wyib, k1 elongated

Row 5: slip wyif, k3

Row 6: p3, slip wyif

Row 7: slip wyif, k3

Row 8: p1, slip wyib, p2

Row 9: slip wyif, k3

Row 10: slip wyif, p1, slip wyif, p1

For many of these stitch patterns, it’s worth turning work over and seeing if you like the back too. Here’s the back of this one:

(This one makes me want to have kept the slipped stitches all on the back after all.)

And here how this pattern looks in variegated yarn, which is often nice with slipped stitches:

In this last example, all stitches are slipped with yarn on the wrong side. Pattern rows alternate with plain rows, and there are stripes of color. Each stripe starts on a pattern row so as to have the slipped stitches show up a bit more.

RS: k; WS: p | Knit on right side; purl on wrong side. | |

RS: sl wyib; WS: sl wyif | Slip with yarn in back on right side; slip with yarn in front on wrong side. |

Multiple of four stitches plus one.

Row 1: k1, slip wyib, k1, slip wyib

Row 2: p4

Row 3: k2, slip wyib, k1

Row 4: p4

Row 5: slip wyib, k3

Row 6: p4

Row 7: k1, slip wyib, k1, slip wyib

Row 8: p4

Row 9: slip wyib, k3

Row 10: p4

Row 11: slip wyib, k3

Row 12: p4

Row 13: slip wyib, k3

Row 14: p4

Row 15: k2, slip wyib, k1

Row 16: p4

Row 17: slip wyib, k3

Row 18: p4

Row 19: k1, slip wyib, k1, slip wyib

Row 20: p4

If you would rather comment on Ravelry, I’ve cross-posted there.

Next up: Lace.

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

You might be perfectly satisfied with the grid you have without any further modification. If so, you’ll want to skip to “Converting grids into stitch patterns”.

The first step in deciding this is to lay out multiple repeats of your stitch pattern to see if you like it as an all over design (if that’s what you’re after, of course).

If I take the base 6 version of *peace* from “Making a Grid”

and repeat it three times in each direction, I can get a sense of how the repeats interact at the edges:

This has distinct possibilities as it is, but let’s see what happens if I play with it some.

The first obvious variation is to mirror it. Here it is mirrored horizontally:

Or if you don’t like the doubled squares at the edges, you can overlap them:

Here is the latter, in a three by three repeat:

Now mirror it in both directions:

and see how it looks repeated, this time three times horizontally by two vertically (because the symmetry makes it easier to see how the repeats interact).

If the grid has more white space than you like and you’re not making a secret code, you can mirror the grid on itself so that it’s doubled (shown in two colors to make the mirroring clearer):

If you have an even number of squares, you can again eliminate duplicate columns if you’d like:

And here is the allover layout of the latter:

These are probably enough ideas to be going on with, but if you’d like to try out some other variations (whether with the original asymmetrical grid or the mirrored), have a look at the pattern design resources in Further Resources.

Just for an example, one basic pattern repeat variation you’ll find is the half drop, asymmetrical:

and symmetrical:

If you would rather comment on Ravelry, I’ve cross-posted there.

Next post: Converting grids into stitch patterns.

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

There are several ways to turn a short sequence of numbers into a grid that can be turned into a stitch pattern chart. I’m going to demonstrate the ones I can think of. Once I’ve generated some grids, I’ll explain how to convert them into knitting charts.

The word that I’m going to use for my examples is *peace*. Working my way across my table for encrypting letters as numbers, I get the following possibilities: 1605010305, 1705010305, 2005010305, 2205010305, 2405010305, and 8069656769. (You’ll note that since most of the letters are smaller than 6, they’re identical in most of the variations.) The Dewey Decimal number for *peace* is 303.66. Watch out for those zeroes!

Keep in mind the difference between inspiration and encoding: if you’re going to make a secret code with a friend, you’ll need to always use the same method of choosing numbers, never omit zeros, and always use the same layout method. If you’re using meaning as a springboard for design that doesn’t need to be decipherable, you can be more flexible.

If you have multiple meanings you want to incorporate, you can sometimes make a pattern that puts one meaning per row of the grid. Here, for example, is a grid of the Dewey Decimal numbers for *peace* (303.66) and *knitting* (746.432). *Peace* is the first row; *knitting* the second. I counted from right to left for both rows, and decided to count ten for the zero.

If I wanted to, I could make the *knitting* line slightly shorter than the *peace* line; this can be accommodated with increases and decreases. If the difference in repeat length had been drastic, I would try repeating the shorter set of numbers again. As it is, I just filled in with a couple of blank spaces.

If you treat the number of the base you’re using as one axis of the grid you’re filling, and the number of digits you’re encoding as the other, there’s some more variations possible. I’m going to show *peace* in both base 10 (the one we usually deal with in everyday math) and in base 6.

The letters in *peace* converted into base 10 are 1605010305; converted into base 6, they’re 2405010305. There’s ten digits regardless.

I have chosen to leave in the zeroes. In the base ten grid, I’m putting them in the tenth square; in the base six grid, in the sixth.

Here is the base ten grid. I’ve started in the bottom right corner again (though really it’s arbitrary). For this grid, I’m counting which digit it is from right to left, and then plotting the value of the digit vertically. So the first stitch is in the first row, the second in the sixth, the third in the tenth, and so on.

Here is the base six grid. I’ve started in the bottom right corner again (though really it’s arbitrary). Zero is marked in the sixth column. For this grid, I’m counting which digit it is from bottom to top, and then plotting the value of the digit horizontally. So the first stitch is in the second column, the second in the fourth, the third in the sixth, and so on.

A method of laying out a grid which can result in denser stitch patterns involves a little basic arithmetic (addition and division).

Take the individual digits of the number you’ve come up with and add them together. Then see if you can divide it evenly; if not, we’ll pretend it’s the next number up. If the grid uses the exact number of squares, the last stitch marked will be in a corner; if you skip to the next number, the final corner will be empty.

For this section, I’m going to pretend I don’t have any zeros. The digits from 1605010305 add up to 21, which is 3×7. The digits from 1705010305 add up to 22 (2×11); from 2005010305, 16 (4×4); from 2205010305, 18 (3×6); from 2405010305, 20 (2×10); from 8069656769, 62 (2×31. That would make a very long and skinny stitch pattern; we could pretend it’s 63, which is 7×9). I’m not going to show grids for all of these; it would take too much space.

For the first grid, I worked my way back and forth as if knitting flat. For this one, I used the ASCII numbers. I started in the bottom right, counted 8, then counted 6, then 9 and so on. Each time I got to the end of a row, I turned around and continued the count on the next row. You will note that since my grid didn’t have the exact number of squares that there’s a blank square left over at the end.

In the second, I did all my counting from right to left. If I couldn’t fit all the stitches on a row, I continued the count on the next.

Each of these grids has possibilities for being turned into a stitch pattern, and you can see them knit up in swatches.

If you would rather comment on Ravelry, I’ve cross-posted there.

Next blog installment: Ways of rearranging the grids to make more symmetrical patterns, if desired. The entry after that discusses making the grids into actual knitting stitches.

(This is part of a series of posts on different ways of hiding meaning in your knitting.)

- Dickens, Charles. A Tale of Two Cities. (knitting; historical fiction)
- Jones, Diana Wynne. The Spellcoats (spinning & weaving; children’s fantasy; part of a series)
- Wrede, Patricia and Caroline Stevermer. The Grand Tour or The Purloined Coronation Regalia. (knitting; YA alternate history/fantasy; part of a series)

- Batten, Wayne. “Madame Defarge’s Knitting Cipher”. Wayne Batten’s Web Pages for Montgomery Bell Academy. 23 July 2009. [http://home.montgomerybell.edu/~battenw/Defarge%27s%20code.htm]. Accessed 7 Feb 2011.

- Subject headings to look for at a library:
- Ciphers.
- Cryptography.

- “How to Create Secret Codes & Ciphers”. WikiHow.com 7 Mar 2011. [http://www.wikihow.com/Create-Secret-Codes-and-Ciphers]. Accessed 8 Apr 2011.
- Hipschman, Ron. “The Secret Language”. The Exploratorium. 1995. [http://www.exploratorium.edu/ronh/secret/secret.html]. Accessed 7 Apr 2011.

- Subject heading to look for at a library:
- Repetitive patterns (Decorative arts)

- Proctor, Richard. Principles of pattern design.
- “Symmetry and Pattern Design Resources”. Artlandia. 2010. [http://www.artlandia.com/wonderland/#Textile-design] Accessed 23 Apr 2011.
- Waterman, V. Ann. Design Your Own Repeat Patterns: A Quick and Easy Approach.

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